The last couple of days have seen us travel Bali in search of epic waves. Although the waves may not have been epic to all of us, I can assure you, all are having a an epic time. As the swell came up through the early part of the week, I was able to witness some amazing surf, again in complete awe of those around me.
Chris and I split from the group one afternoon, and made our way to a break that is a little more our speed, called Bulongon. Although the waves were not as big, we were having an amazing afternoon, to what seemed like a full 4 hour session. That evening we were invited, by our local waitress, to a spiritual fire dance at the Hindu Temple by our Villas. The dance felt more like an opera, complete with story line, incredible costumes, and chanting you could lay down a soundtrack to. Great evening provided by the wonderful locals and their culture.
The next day we spent at Double Six's, a spot in Kuda Beach. That evening we had the opportunity to eat at Rizal's (our host in Bali, who is known by all in Bali and a world renown surfer) restaurant, UN's. The food was amazing, and as you glance around at the wall of autographed surf pictures you get the feeling that a lot of great meals were accompanied by a lot of great conversations at this restaurant.
Today I awoke and decided to not surf. Well actually, I was forced to stay home. Forced by a little something that has been coined the term Bali Belly. Not something that is fun in any way, shape, or form. I will leave it at that, and am happy it usually only lasts 24 hours.
Looking forward to tonight, as Curran, who skates for Hurley, does a skate demo in the city. We will all be there to cheer him and support him, as he just paddled in from a 3 hour session....
Upon writing this, the group learned of a legend that was lost in the surf community, who was a friend to a many on this trip. Our prayers and thoughts are with his family. Rest in Peace Andy Irons.
