Let me just start off by saying that I am in no way good enough a surfer to take full advantage of this trip to Bali, and I am very grateful and humbled by this experience. Having said that I had an amazing first day of riding. We were led down a cliff, on a path that consisted of slippery mud, deceiving rocks, and, eventually razor sharp reef. It was all worth it, as we were all extremely eager to be in the water after 5 days of travel. The break we surfed is Temples on Uluwatu Beach, and made for a great left, which catered perfect to a couple of our riders. We had a great 3 hour session, then came time to make our way back to shore. Upon the advice of one of the surfers, I took an alternate route. This would take me to what I can only describe as hell. I walked on reef for about fifty meters.... razor sharp, non-forgiving reef. I thought I had caught a break when I found some algae to walk on, but apparently someone found it funny to throw chards of the reef into the algae. I know someone upstairs was getting a kick out of watching me traverse this reef, but I guess that is just a small price to pay for surfing in paradise.
The afternoon found us climbing down a 550 step cliff, to an amazing beach break called Nyuang Nyuang. Although the waves were a little steep for my skill set, I paddled out to just be among the guys and watch them play like they were kids on a playground for the first time. I sat on my board, parallel to the top of the break and watched as each one maneuvered the waves. The smiles rang from ear to ear as each surfer, ages ranging from 14 to 41, dropped in time and time again. The experience of watching these guys ride has been just as much a blessing as being in Bali. I will forever be grateful for witnessing pure joy in the water. We then made our way back up the 550 stairs, which after a morning and afternoon session, and having to carry your board, made for quite a feat. All exhausted from days activities, we made our way back to our Villas.
Upon arrival at the villas, we were greeted by some locals who had set up a full BBQ for us, complete with all the trimmings. It was a perfect end to a perfect first day. As we filled our bellies, and topped off our night with a little nightcap, we watched the video that PK (Hurley's in house photographer) had put together of the days adventure. After the end of the video, I was in bed and asleep for night by 8pm. What an epic first day.....
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